The previous post is Jiujiang Bus Station (May 05).
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Lushan (May 07) · May 7, 05:12 AM

The sky was clear this morning — finally — so after breakfast I went out to find “Watching Cloud Pavilion,” perched on a high rock outcropping with a panoramic view of the north side of the Lushan mountain area, down into the valley and back up to Gulin city. I arrived two days ago in gusty fog and rain that did not finally let up until yesterday afternoon. The weather ruined all the views from the mountain, but kept down the crowding. Lushan is a very famous Chinese mountain that draws large crowds — mostly for the views, partly for the history.

My first day here I walked down the northeastern ridge with three guys out from school for the holiday. Sights included “Heavenly Bridge”, “Immortal’s Cavern”, “Heavenly Pool Pagoda”, and “Sleeping Dragon Pine”. Mao has been here, and anywhere he sat for a photograph, there is a stand with touts and camera to take the picture of the tourist. At the bottom of the ridge we crossed a large suspension bridge and walked back up a mountain road. I should have bought a local map when I arrived to plan my stay here a little better. In the evening I logged online in a bad mood, blaming weather, sleep deprivation, high touristy prices with the special foreigner price multiplier, and bad planning.

I spent the first half of the second day moping around, unable to decide what to do and when to leave. I decided to stay, plopped down another 100 RMB, and headed out for the day (still with no map). The first part of my walk took me downhill through the historic villa distric (built by Europeans — e.g. missionaries). Grass and stone lanes run up and down the steep mountain slopes perpendicular to the three main roads.

Past the villas, after a short road walk, I came to Lushan Museum. Mao stayed twice, so it’s of course a big attraction now. His bed and bath rooms are preserved with their original furniture. I use the word “preserved” loosely. But this is an important sight. On two occasions the CCPC met here, determining in large part the 20th century political course of China. The tour path is crowded with loudspeaker-led tour groups. Tour guides have no problem using their loudspeakers indoors, in small rooms, because there’s such a din from the talking. But outside, or anywhere off the path of the main attractions, was quite nice. There’s also a couple very detailed exhibits on the geology of Lushan, and on a recent glacial period.

The museum is on the East side of Lulin Lake. On the west side
On the other side of the fogged-in lake there’s a dam, a bridge, and a footpath down through the fog and forest to “Yellow Dragon Temple” and “Three Precious Trees”. At the former I talked with a couple monks, then met two tourists with whom I chatted and snacked. At the latter there are three trees planted about 400 years ago by more monks.

From that place I wandered down to “Dam of Power Station”, which was also the top of an expensive cable car. I wasted a couple hours walking back and forth looking for a footpath, but was rewarded with a couple valley views when the clouds lifted briefly. After enough wasted time, I was broken, and bought not only an over-priced map, but also over-priced potato chip, for the couple-hundred-meter return ascent. I found a footpath up the valley, and wound up in back streets with ramshackle housing, old villas, and decaying hostels.

I got to bed early after dinner, email, ice-cream, chatting with locals, and ice-cream. Unfortunately, I tuned into the English language “Street Fighter” and didn’t get to sleep until after 11. (In China, everyone goes to bed early, and gets up early — If I leave at 7 AM, I’m the last one out by a long shot).

Now I’m taking a bus back to Jiujiang, where I will try to get to Shanghai, or (if tickets are unavailable), to Hefei.

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