Tom: Dunhua (May 21)

Dunhua (May 21) · May 28, 01:03 AM

The officer and I split a cheap double and we took dinner together. There was only hot water in the bathroom when we checked in — showers were difficult and the toilet would not work until water was turned on around 5 AM. His English is halting, but his pronunciation is good. At night he took the wooden radiator cover and propped it against the door for security.

We are up early and take a minibus to the park gate. That’s 80 CNY but includes the return trip. The park ticket is 100 CNY and the park bus is 45 CNY. At the start of the trail at the base of a large thawing waterfall we pay another 30 CNY. I plan to stay the night so I’m carrying my full pack when we begin the climb. I’m the tail end of a cold trying to shake a cough. I’m out of shape. First we cross a river bed and climb concrete steps in the cold air. Then the steps steepen. Then we enter a mountainside tunnel that runs up past the waterfall. I think the AT(Appalachian Trail) was this steep only four times. On the bus rides previously we’ve gone backwards from late spring to late winter. Tianchi Hu (Heaven Lake) is over 6000 feet and still frozen over — a beautiful wasteland. We hike around, eat a little, snap pictures, and descend. Back in the cold tunnel I decide not to stay the night. We make several stops on the trip out, including a walk through a gorgeous forest.

My next stop is Jinpo Hu, another famous lake. I get onto a three and a half hour bus north. Most of the trip is improved dirt road — very bumpy. The bus is quite full; I’m squatting in the aisle on a small folding wooden seat. At Dunhua we — the disembarking — are met with a crowd of touts. I follow a woman across the street to a small 8×8 room. A raised platform fills the space — it’s padded and fitted with sheets and pillows for two. Up in one corner a rickety triangular shelf supports an old television. I get all this and a very interesting to use bathroom for 30 RMB. The apartment’s common toilet doesn’t have running water — one scoops water into the bowl out of the bathtub where it is stored. Add enough water to trigger a flush.

Across the street the woman shows me a restaurant. I close my eyes and point to what is an excellent stew. From nearby internet I research train schedules and do a little email. With the help of a couple friendly locals I purchase over-the-counter cold medicine from a pharmacy, and then return to bed.

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http://tom.spacing-guild.net/2006/05/28/enroute-to-harbin-may-22

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