Tom: Enroute to Xi'an (June 06)

Enroute to Xi'an (June 06) · Jun 10, 10:38 PM

I spent most of the morning on the old city wall — walked about half of it. Along the way I found a crumbling, un-restored gate, workers repairing another section — including one whom I had seen earlier before I had found my way up via the West Gate. He happily had insisted I should climb a shear drainage ditch ten or twelve meters up. I happily declined. At the southeast corner I found a three story tower and climbed up for a quiet view out over the city. Once I was more than 100 meters from the West Gate where I had climbed up, I had the wall, the views into decaying courtyards, and that tower all to myself. I got down again at the East Gate in time to check out.

In a failed attempt to eat lunch on the street (and not at the overpriced guest-house) I ran into a cart driver I met yesterday. I obligated myself to follow through on a promise to let him take me to a nearby temple, and bargained him “down” to 20 RMB. The temple was 25 RMB, and a guy in a folding chair took 5 more for parking fees. Excellent wood carvings inside, and pleasantly green farmland lined with tall, thin trees outside — but not worth 50 RMB, I think. I was going back to yesterday’s bad mood. All this happened after I failed to find lunch on the street, so when I got back from the temple visit I broke down and ordered a dish. Chinese don’t understand the concept of eating alone (except for breakfast and noodle bowls), so I could only order a large pile of pork fried with vegetables. I would like to be able to order half a pile, and then maybe a vegetable dish, but I don’t know how to communicate that.

Whatever. I settled my bill. She charged 3 RMB more than our agreed-on train ticket price, but — maybe sensing my mood — gave me water (worth 1 RMB on the street) before I left.

Across from the train station I picked up a small plate of fried rice to hold me through the evening. The couple that ran the shop were genuinely friendly; the didn’t overcharge (much), and we had a good conversation.

My train ticket is for the lower bunks, which is the most expensive. Earlier this fact miffed me. Now I’m grateful. There’s not A/C, and it’s a little warm tonight.

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http://tom.spacing-guild.net/2006/06/11/xian-june-07

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