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Dali Old City (August 02) · Aug 5, 10:52 AM

I ate another bowl of fruit, museli, and yoghurt — this time at Jim’s place — before walking to Yu’er lake park for shiko. After a light workout I sat down for dumpling soup on the street, for which I was overcharged (ten yuan). At the same time, I let a street cobbler go to work on my shoes without negotiating a price, and a minibus parks just in the right spot to keep me from seeing what he’s doing. In the end, I angrily hand over a twenty because I have no smaller change.

In this bad mood, I set out to find the Yan Pin Tailor shop I encountered last night. I walked by them two or three times this morning — I’m pretty sure about that — but found them finally half an hour into a systematic search of the city grid. I stopped in, but only briefly before deciding to return to my room to pick up flip-flops — easier for changing clothes in. On the way back I found another tailor shop across the street — I bought two pairs of fisherman pants for daytime wear at Burning Man. Returning to the Yan Pin shop, I spent just under $100 US. First I bought one pair of paints and an insulated silk jacket. Then I ordered two more pairs of pants and a hooded zip jacket.

Buying stuff — spending money — at the end of my trip is what I’ve been planning for a while, so buying stuff makes me feel happy, productive. I’m back into a good mood, and the sun is still bright, so I set out with my camera, wandering large main streets and quieter side streets. A German couple I met briefly in the Tiger Leaping Gorge is sitting down at a cafe. I join them and order spring rolls. After that: more wandering. I run into that same couple again at a Korean guesthouse and restaurant, and sit down again, this time for Korean noodles and a large tray of vegetable roll. They’re sharing a couple bottles of beer.

At dusk I return to the Yu’er park for a few more minutes of shiko. Later I’ll wander around the main downtown area; I’m looking for a hat. I’m also crowd-watching and ogling the lights. At the very end of my evening I had a fried chicken sandwich at the Tibet Cafe, then a slice of banana coconut cream pie at a coffee and desert shop. The family from Taiwan tries to get to me eat watermelon when I return to the room, but I’m stuffed. I shower. I go to bed. A nice night.

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