Tom: Enroute to Guilin (August 10)

Enroute to Guilin (August 10) · Aug 12, 06:52 AM

Every day is an adventure. Today I have the adventure of getting from Point A (Guizhou Xijiang) to Point B (my sleeper bus to Guilin) via Kaili (Point C) and then Guiyang (Point D). Yesterday I had an adventure in Point A.

First I have to get out of bed. I set the alarm clock before I fell asleep last night, but lost two hours overnight; I was fortunate to wake up enough to check my watch at a quarter to six. I installed a new battery yesterday, so the clock must be defective. In any case, I was at the bus stop just after six to find out that the first bus back to Kaili won’t leave until 7:20. I have time for breakfast — soy milk and bread again.

The return trip to Kaili was less exciting — and on a different, better road — than my earlier trip out. I Kaili, I hopped onto a bus to Guiyang (there’s bunches) — a deluxe express monster with air-conditioning that actually conditions the air, a good VCD system, and comfy chairs. I have one towards the front. I boarded after stowing my luggage in the lower hold, and bus station attendants with cheery red sashes handed me a small bottle of water. This is a nice bus, that’s what I’m thinking. In Guiyang I have errands set for myself. First: get the hats packaged for eventual check-in at an airport. Second: buy contacts while I’m still in China and they are cheap. Third: catch up on my journal. Fourth: select a hundred or so photos to print out and take with me to Burning Man. Fifth: book two nights in Hong Kong. Sixth: figure out how the heck to get to Kyoto from Tokyo on the 16th. According to the guy I’m going to meet it’s a big crowded holiday.

I completed tasks one, two, and five.

The very first thing I did in Guiyang was check my bags at the bus station across town; I rode bus route no. 1 three quarters of the way around the city loop it makes. At the left luggage office I mentioned my dilemma with the hats and the staff insisted on solving it with a combination of old cardboard and several dozen yards of packing tape. When they finished, I had a solid and rather odd looking package custom fit to my hats. Task one: complete.

I got back onto a route 1 bus and finished the loop back to the train station, where I got off to look for a glasses shop, first stopping for delicious steamed dumplings with an unusual collection of spices on the side to which one adds soy sauce. I didn’t find any glasses shops, but the dumplings made me very happy. I’m sure I’ve seen some optical stores on from the window of the city buses I’ve been on, so I hop back on. With help from a couple helpful riders, I’m directed to an area repeat with any number of places selling contacts. I choose two and buy six months worth of one-month disposables, in two different Western brands. It all costs about 35 USD. Task two: complete.

I love retail shopping in China. It’s mostly always a delightful experience with the staff.

Now I set out for internet. The eyewear store staff got me started in the right direction, and a young guy on the street found an online bar for me. Always ask the young people; they know where the internet is, so to speak. I caught up on email, which now includes Burning Man planning. I surfed. I just barely remembered to book two nights at a hostel in Kowloon (Hong Kong). Task five: complete.

It’s a quarter to seven. My bus leaves at eight. It’s time to go. Two taxis refused to take me — probably because there are several bus station in Guiyang and they don’t want to bother figuring out which one the foreigner wants. I was left taking my favorite city bus route. It’s number one!

The sidewalks around the bus station are crowded with newly setup snack stalls and tables, and the other restaurants want me to sit for a proper meal, but I only have time to buy snacks, water, and fresh bread for the trip.

I collected my luggage — one backpack, one large plastic bag, and an odd cardboard package — then found the waiting room. I paid 240 yuan for this ride, so it’s a deluxe sleeper and we get to use the special VIP waiting room, which is distinguished from the general waiting area by being partitioned off with a glass wall. At seven thirty I load my bags underneath and (finally!) get to a bathroom. I’ve been careful not to eat too much and too keep myself dehydrated so I won’t have a problem on the bus, which doesn’t have an on-board bathroom. The bus is excellent, and I have the foremost lower bunk — there’s a flatscreen at my feet, so I will have to keep a low profile not to block the view of the people behind me. An attendant is passing out shoe bags to passengers as they board — you always ride sleeper buses shoeless. My shoes were so big I got two bags — one for each.

We’re off a little after eight. I have a strange view up through the windshield above me. Bright buildings that tower up in the black night spin into view and then back out of view as we twist and turn out way out of the city onto a highway. They were playing music videos initially — including a euro-dance number with an accordion hook I recognize — but at half eight or maybe nine they put on a Hong Kong slapstick, The Magnificent Scoundels. I drift off before it’s over, but wake fully for a bathroom pitstop sometime before midnight but sometime after the VCD system was turned off.

My final waking thoughts: Burning Man, Tokyo, martial conditioning, plans for life after travel, life-sucks brooding, and some reflection on China and my traveling.

* * *

Yay, things with Stephen Chow I haven’t seen before, yay!!!!
— Katie Aug 15, 11:04 PM #
We assume that you are in hyper-travel mode with no time to update us with our daily adventure fix. Bummer. Stay safe!
— Ferdbirfel Aug 29, 09:10 AM #
Burningman is over!
We need closure on this China thing.
We’re on the edge of our seats.
— Ferdbirfel Sep 7, 09:51 AM #
Can I get some sleep first?! :)
— Tom Sep 7, 11:07 AM #

http://tom.spacing-guild.net/2006/08/25/yangshuo-august-11

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